It's right when I load it. I've stepped through it with a debugger. I think I've finally figured it out, though.
I think I reread the Notepad tutorial to find something I missed the first time. (I bet your activity doesn't extend ListActivity for it to have run fine.) When your activity extends ListActivity and you try to define a layout for it, the layout must have a ListView with android:id="@android:id/list" parameter. Mine, here, was android:id="@+id/list".
Pretty sure that was my problem. At least it's working for me now.